Luxor

Nile Cruise in Luxor to Banana Island

After we visited the Valley of the Kings and Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple on the West Bank of Luxor, LT and our driver dropped us back to our hotel for an afternoon rest. Ibrahim, our Memphis Tours Leader, acommpanied us for an afternoon cruise. Initally, we thought this would be a felucca ride up and down the Nile, a felucca being a traditional sail boat used in Egypt. However, when we met our boat driver at the dock, we were found out that we were actually going to go to Banana Island. Also, because there wasn’t much wind that afternoon, our boat driver (I unfortuantely can’t remember his name) recommended we take one of the motorised boats instead.

We actually had a stunning Nile view from our hotel room but it was an added bonus to see Luxor from the vantage point of the Nile. Our boat driver / guide was fantastic, he was so chatty and friendly and really had a lot of interesting information.

Banana Island is a small banana plantation on the banks of the Nile. There seemed to be a number of boats arriving with tourists but it didn’t really seem like a tourist attraction, it was just a banana farm! But it was interesting nevertheless! Our guide told us about the organic banana farming practices and all the interesting featured of banana trees and then we were able to sit down at the picnic tables that overlooked the Nile and indulge in a bowl full of little organic bananas, which were actuallty really delicious. The girls loved them, which was great because we all had been struggling with a lack of appetite after over night of fevers.

The sun was setting as we headed back down the Nile when our guide offered to let Braino and I steer the boat for a bit. I was so terrible at it our guide quickly booted me back out of the drivers seat, haha! But Braino navigated us skillfully down the Nile for quite a while. The boat was actualluy rather big, a group of 30 people could have fit quite easily in to it but we had it all to ourselves.

The first time I came to Egypt in 2007, our tour included two nights of sleeping on a felucca while travelling from Aswan to Luxor. This was a really unique experience, because there was no showers, toilets or even rooms. Our group pretty much camped out on the deck of this sail boat for two days. I loved it but I didn’t think it would be the best option this time around with the girls. Braino and I did consider doing one of the famous Nile cruises boats that travel between Luxor and Aswan but it’s rather pricey and we thought that could get a little tidious for the kids, because there isn’t much onboard to keep them occupied. I’d love to do a Nile cruise later in life maybe, when I can kick back and read Agatha’s Christies ‘Death on the Nile’.

Visiting the West Bank of Luxor With Kids

After the full day we all spent sleeping, getting through the awful fever and lethagy we had all experienced, we mustered enought energy to head out in the moring, with our guide LT, to explore the sights of the West Bank of Luxor.

The Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is where the Pharaohs from the eighteenth dynasty to the twentieth dynasty. During this time were buried. Royal tombs were built deep with in the rock of the fairly unassuming limestone valley in an effort to hide the mummified remains and treasures from grave robbers. The pyramids that were used as burial chambers in the eariler dynasties were a little to obviously for graverobbers, so these style of hidden tombs gained popularity.

However, throughout history, many of these tombs were robbed and any artifacts that was found in modern times are now in the Egyptian Museums in addition to other museums in the world. The most well known tomb was Tutanhkamun’s, which was discovered in 1922. It hadn’t been disturbed at all and was found full of treasures, including Tut’s mummy.

Our ticket allowed us to enter three tombs and although guides are not allowed to enter the tombs and do any talking, LT advised that we visited the tombs of Rameses III (KV11), Ramses IX (KV6) & Ramses IV (KV2). Some of the tombs, like Tutanjkamun’s require an additional payment.

Although the tombs are generally empty, the intricate hieroglyphic adorning the walls are amazing, many of which still have colours after all these millienia. It’s amazing to think that there could still be tombs, sitting undiscovered in the cliffs of the valley.

Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut

Our next stop was only a short drive away to the Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut. Queen Hatshepsut was one of ancient Egypt's most successful and prominent pharaohs and only one of the very few female Pharaohs, reigning during the 18th Dynasty from approximately 1479 to 1458 BCE. As the daughter of King Thutmose I and wife of Thutmose II, she initially served as regent for her young stepson, Thutmose III. However, she soon declared herself pharaoh, adopting full kingly titles and regalia.

Hatshepsut is renowned for her prosperous and peaceful rule, which was marked by significant architectural achievements, including her magnificent mortuary temple at Deir el-Bahri and the two obelisks at Karnak Temple (of of which is still standing).

The temple is breathtakingly intriging from a distance and up close there are many impressive statues lining the three different levels and more well preserved, colourful heirogliphics. I would rate this as one of my favourite places in in Egypt, maybe because I remember first learning about Queen Hatsheput in a computer game I used to play as a kid; Where in Time is Carmen Sandiago.

The Colossi of Memnon

Our last stop on the West Bank of the Nile was The Colossi of Memnon, two massive stone statues standing as guardians at the entrance of the ancient mortuary temple of Pharaoh Amenhotep III. Crafted around 1350 BCE from quartzite sandstone, each statue, towering at approximately 18 meters (59 feet) high, depicts the seated figure of Amenhotep III. It was fasinating to see all the current archeological exacavations that stretched beyond the statues. Other than the two statues there are only a few souvenir vendors at this site, making it a quick visit to see the Colossi and take photos. We managaed to arrive just before the large bus load of tourist we saw leaving Queen Hatshepsuts Temple at the same time we did, so we had the Colossi all to ourself for the short time we were there.

Because all our travel was arranged by Memphis Tours, we didn’t have to worry about a thing - LT, our guide, picked us up directly from the hotel with our driver in our own private mini van. And we didn’t have to worry about tickets or paying admission on entry. LT had all of that arranged for us in advance. I would highly recommend visiting with a guide; LT was able to provide so much fasinating information and it was a incredibly convinient having someone else take care of everything, considering we were still feeling a little bit unwell.

Because we missed a whole day of our itinerary due to feeling sick, we didn’t get to visiting the following sights:

  • Ramesseum

  • Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III at Medinet Habu

  • The Valley of the Nobles

Other sights you could add to your West Bank of Luxor interary are:

  • The Valley of the Queens

  • Hot Air Balloon at Sunrise

  • Deir el-Medina (Valley of the Artisans)

  • Temple of Seti I

Tour guides will also recommend shops you can visit that usually involve a bit of a demonstration on the production techniques. For exmaple LT recommended we stop in at an Alabastor workshop. Alabastor is a stone similar to marble that is unquie to the West Bank of Luxor and I believe this particular place was the oldest authenic workshop in Luxor.

He also offered to take us to a perfumerary on the East Bank near Karnak Temple where we could purchase esential oils and perfumes. However, declined on both occasions. With these sort of visits, there is a bit of an implided expectation that you purchase something, so we felt that if we weren’t going to buy anything we didn’t want to waste anyones time. However, if you do have the budget and the luggage space, it would be very interesting to see how things are made.

East Bank of Luxor - Karnak Temple & Luxor Temple

Luxor, once known as the ancient city of Thebes, was the captial of Egypt from 1570 BCE to 1069 BCE. Like most of Egypt, The Nile flows right through Luxor, dividing it into the East Bank and The West Bank. The East Bank is where you’ll find mots of the large hotels, shops, residential areas and two of the most important sights of Ancient Egypt; Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple.

We arrived in Luxor in the afternoon, after our driver from Memphis Tours transported us by Mini Van from Hurghada. The Drive took around 3 hours and we drove though some very barren, desert landscapes.

Unfortunately, Hallie and Rooney came down with feverish, flu like symptons on this day, so by the time we reached the hotel in Luxor, The Sonesta St George, they were in no state to head out sightseeing. Braino stayed at the accommodation while they slept and Farley and I headout with our guide LT to visit Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple. As sad as it was that two of the three girls were sick, it was still a lovely afternoon, spending some one on one time with Farley.

Karnak Temple

 Dating from around 2055 BC to around 100 AD, the Karnak Temple Complex is a collection of temples, chapels, pylons, and other structures, making it one of the largest religious complexes ever built.

Inside the Karnak Temple Complex, the Precinct of Amun-Ra, is the only part that most visitors get to see. The other three parts, the Precinct of Mut, the Precinct of Montu, and the dismantled Temple of Amenhotep IV, are not open to the public. 

The most impressive area is the The Great Hypostyle Hall, where the awe-inspiring towering columns soar towards the heavens. The other iconic sights to look out for are the Obelisk of Thutmose I and Queen Hatshepsut along with many huge statues of Ramses II. 

Our guide, LT was a qualified Archeologist and Egyptologist and had so much knowledge to share. He also specialised in spiritual tours and had worked on film shoots as a historical consultant including The Scorpion King with Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson. He was such an interesting character and was very proactive at offering to take our photo, which is always lovely. I actually didn’t get any photos with him. 

First Pylon of Karnak Temple

Obelisks of Thutmose I & Queen Hatshepsut.

The Great Hypostyle Hall

The Great Hypostyle Hall

The Great Hypostyle Hall

The Great Hypostyle Hall

Aries Sphinx Statues in the Great Court

Luxor Temple

After Karnak Temple, we headed to Luxor Temple, which is only a short 2km drive away. There is an Avenue of Sphinx Statues that once linked Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple.

Farley, LT and I arrived as the sun was setting but were surprised to find the crowded were still quite thick. LT mentioned that these crowds were nothing compared to amount of people who visit between Christmas and New Years. Visitors would have to line up for hours just to enter the temples. No Thanks! I’m glad we had missed those sort of crowds by a couple of days

Luxor Temple resembles a smaller version of Karnak Temple and was built by Amenhotep III (1390-52 BC) but completed by Tutankhamun (1336-27 BC) and Horemheb (1323-1295 BC) and then added to by Rameses II (1279-13 BC). The Temple interestingly has evidence of Christian worship and remains of a Coptic church. There is also a Mosque that was built on top of the Temple while it was still buried under the sand. It has been preserved and still stands to this day.

The front of Luxor Temple is guarded by 6 statues of Rameses II - two seated and four standing. Originally two 85m tall obelisk stood on either side of the entrance but one only remains today, the other can now be seen at the Place De La Concorde in Paris.

Avenue of Sphinx

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple

If I could choose a super power, I would want to be able to go back in time to see ancient sites in all their splendour . Or to the late 1800s, when these temples were half buried in the sands of time, before any one saw the value in excavating the ruins of the past. Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple are magnificant in their current states, it’s hard to imagine what they would have looked like over 3000 years agao. Even with the crowded they still have an ethereal, otherworldly vibe, that makes you marvel at history and the evolution of civilisations. I felt very proud to be able to return to Egyot and share the experience of visiting these temples with Farley, 18 years after visiting them for the first time.